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When compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.